Wednesday, August 26, 2009

Of Purling and Loose Stitches

So I was working on my second hat, which is similar to the first one except, this time I wasn't so lazy about purling and decided to do a proper knit/purl double knit (mostly cause the hat is for someone else).

Unfortunately I very quickly noticed that my purling is a -lot- looser than my knitting, which means that the "inside hat" is bigger than the outside and bunches up. This may not be such a big issue in a hat, but it pretty much rules out ever trying to knit two socks at the same time. I'm not even sure whether this is because I hold my purling yarn on my middle finger (as opposed to my index) or whether my purling is just naturally looser or if it's a combination of the two.

So I went to my good friend Google to try and find a solution and found some mention that the Combination Purl Stitch is tighter. In a nutshell, this involves wrapping the yarn clockwise around the needle instead of counter-clockwise (ie. from the bottom up). On the next row you then have to purl into the back of those stitches (it's -much- easier than purling into the back of a normal stitch, promise).

The photo below is of the inside of the hat (ie. the purl side) and you can (hopefully) see the stitches tightening up around the middle of the mushroom's "hat".

Hope this can help someone.

Sunday, August 16, 2009

Double Knit Snowboarding Hat with Earflaps


Alternative title, "My first hat", but that just sounds so boring. So being that I'm going snowboarding (aka having my face shoved in snow) in Switzerland in a few months, I saw it as a brilliant excuse to knit something deliciously complicated.

For those of you not interested in my rambling, just scroll down to the pattern at the bottom (not that I think anyone will be able to actually follow it).

Having never attempted circular knitting or two colour knitting before, I decided to figure them both out at the same time. (My logic is infallible, shush.)

Initially the pattern I decided on, was this one:
Knit Ear Flap Hat Pattern

Things were progressing fairly well (once I managed to actually find a shop that sells circular needles less than 30" in length), mostly thanks to this knittinghelp.com (awesome site), as you can see below:
However, those of you who have any experience with Fair Isle knitting, should know that the inside is just awful. Loose strands everywhere! Especially in a hat, where you have to take into account that it will have to be able to stretch to fit on a head, well it wasn't working for me.

I then remembered seeing something about double knitting on the site mentioned above, and seeing as I was planning on knitting a lining for the hat anyway, it was perfect. After looking around, I came across an article on knitty.com, which saved my hat. On knittinghelp.com, she shows you a few methods on how to hold the yarn while double knitting. Being a British knitter myself, I couldn't figure out Continental knitting and eventually ended up holding both yarns in my right hand, one on the index finger and the other on the middle.

Seeing as I was redoing the hat anyway, I figured I might as well make my own design.

Now then, for the important part.

Yarn Used:
50g of Double Knit in Purple
50g of Double Knit in White

Equipment:
4mm Circular Needle (16")
4mm Double Pointed Needles
4mm Crochet Hook
Stitch Marker (I used one of my rings)
Cardboard (for the pom pom)

Gauge:
4" x 4" = 23st x 34 rows

Size:
19" circumference. I read somewhere that you should measure the head it's for and subtract 2" for a beanie.

Abbreviations:
dpns - double pointed needles
mc - main colour (purple)
cc - c...c... other colour
k1 - knit 1
p1 - purl 1
m1 - make 1
k2tog - knit 2 together (note here, that because this is double knitting, you'll have to use another needle to swap two stitches around, so you end up with MC, MC, CC, CC instead of MC, CC, MC, CC, before knitting them together.)

Important Note:
Usually with double knit patterns, I've noticed that they tend to treat it like a single knit pattern and just assume that the knitter will know to do the opposite in the other colour. I didn't feel like doing that, which may or may not be confusing to some. Generally, all you have to remember to do is just move the yarn of the colour that's in front back and forth (unless you're K1 P1-ing, as opposed to my K1 K1-ing, in which case, move both yarns back and forth).

Earflaps:
Using the dpns, cast on 9 stitches in MC, I used Backward Loop Cast On, I would advise against using Long Tail Cast On in this case as it already "knits" one row for you, which messes up the double knitting.

Note: To keep the two layers together, twist the MC and CC yarns at the beginning of each row, anti-clockwise.

Row 1: K1 MC, *(K1 CC, K1 MC), repeat from * 4 times. (You can also K1 MC, P1 CC, which will make the hat reversible, but I was being lazy and didn't feel like purling.)
Row 2 (and every even row): P1 MC, *(P1 CC, P1 MC), repeat from * until end of the row.
Row 3: K1 MC, K1 CC, M1 MC, M1 CC, *(K1 MC, K1 CC) repeat from * 3 times, M1 MC, M1 CC, K1 MC (7 MC and 6 CC total)
Row 5: K1 MC, K1 CC, M1 MC, M1 CC, *(K1 MC, K1 CC) repeat from * 5 times, M1 MC, M1 CC, K1 MC (9 MC and 8 CC total)
Row 7: K1 MC, K1 CC, M1 MC, M1 CC, *(K1 MC, K1 CC) repeat from * 7 times, M1 MC, M1 CC, K1 MC (11 MC and 10 CC total)
Row 9: K1 MC, K1 CC, M1 MC, M1 CC, *(K1 MC, K1 CC) repeat from * 9 times, M1 MC, M1 CC, K1 MC (13 MC and 12 CC total)

Repeat until:
Row 21: K1 MC, K1 CC, M1 MC, M1 CC, *(K1 MC, K1 CC) repeat from * 21 times, M1 MC, M1 CC, K1 MC (25 MC and 24 CC total)
Row 22: P1 MC, *(P1 CC, P1 MC), repeat from * until end of the row.
Row 23: Slip 1 MC (purl-wise), *(K1 CC, Slip 1 MC), repeat from * until end.

Break yarn. Repeat for other earflap.

Pattern:



Hat:
With your circular needle and MC, cast on 24 26 st (again, I used Backward Loop Cast On).
Turn and K1 MC, *(Slip 1 CC, K1 MC) across the stitches of the one earflap.
Cast on 61 65 more stitches using MC.
Turn and K1 MC, *(Slip 1 CC, K1 MC) across the stitches of the other earflap.
Cast on 25 27 more stitches using MC.
Join the work, placing a stitch marker between the first and last stitch.
(108 MC sts + 108 CC sts = 216 Total)

EDIT! Thanks to Sue and Becky for pointing out my complete failure at basic addition.

NOTE: With regards to the slipping of stitches here, be sure never to knit CC into MC stitches or vica versa (until you get to the pattern of course). The only reason why I'm slipping here is because I'm only casting on with purple and I don't want to knit through my white stitches with the purple, so I'm ending the earflaps with one more row of white, so I can slip the white while casting on the purple brim.

Row 1&2: *(K1 MC, K1 CC), repeat from * for entire row.
Row 3-32: Follow the pattern shown above (feel free to make up your own pattern, keeping in mind that 108 should be divisible by it's width and try to keep it around 30 rows high.) For alternative colour stitches, just K1 CC, K1 MC instead of the usual K1 MC, K1 CC.

Continue with *(K1 MC, K1 CC) rows until the hat measures about 4.5" from the brim (alternatively, until it fits in such a way that only your crown is still open).



Start the decrease!
You will have to switch from the circular needle to the double pointed needles when it starts getting too small for the circular needle. I think I switched at around row 11 or 13.

Row 1: [K2Tog MC, K2Tog CC, *(K1 MC, K1 CC) repeat from * 10 times] repeat entire bracket until end of row.
Row 2 (and all even rows): *(K1 MC, K1 CC), repeat from * for entire row.
Row 3: [K2Tog MC, K2Tog CC, *(K1 MC, K1 CC) repeat from * 9 times] repeat entire bracket until end of row.
Row 5: [K2Tog MC, K2Tog CC, *(K1 MC, K1 CC) repeat from * 8 times] repeat entire bracket until end of row.
Row 7: [K2Tog MC, K2Tog CC, *(K1 MC, K1 CC) repeat from * 7 times] repeat entire bracket until end of row.
Row 9: [K2Tog MC, K2Tog CC, *(K1 MC, K1 CC) repeat from * 6 times] repeat entire bracket until end of row.
Row 11: [K2Tog MC, K2Tog CC, *(K1 MC, K1 CC) repeat from * 5 times] repeat entire bracket until end of row.
Row 13: [K2Tog MC, K2Tog CC, *(K1 MC, K1 CC) repeat from * 4 times] repeat entire bracket until end of row.
Row 15: [K2Tog MC, K2Tog CC, *(K1 MC, K1 CC) repeat from * 3 times] repeat entire bracket until end of row.
Row 17: [K2Tog MC, K2Tog CC, *(K1 MC, K1 CC) repeat from * 2 times] repeat entire bracket until end of row.
Row 19: [K2Tog MC, K2Tog CC, *(K1 MC, K1 CC) repeat from * 1 times] repeat entire bracket until end of row.
Row 21: [K2Tog MC, K2Tog CC] repeat entire bracket until end of row.

You should have 9 MC and 9 CC sts left. Break yarns and weave the tails through remaining respective stitches (ie. MC through MC, CC through CC); draw up firmly, secure on wrong side.

Finishing:
With the right side facing and the crochet hook, using MC, attach the wool center back and single crochet all around the endges including the earflaps. Take care to keep the work flap (ie. don't crochet too tightly). Join with a slip stitch in first single crochet. Fasten off.

Cut nine 30” strands of MC and draw through stitches at point of a earflap to the mid-point of the strands. Divide the lengths into 3 sections of 6 strands each and braid them. Knot the end of the braid. Trim ends even. Repeat for the other earflap.

Using the cardboard, cut out two donut shapes in the size you want your pom pom and make a pom pom in CC. (For more detailed instructions on how to do this, Google is your friend.) Attach pom to the top of your hat.

Feel proud and take moronic photos of yourself wearing it.